Checklist for Buying a Piano

-Austin Gaboriau
Austin's Piano Service


-Bring: Flathead screwdriver, flashlight, pitch reference/tuner, Pierce Piano Atlus (optional)

- Make sure that the hinge pins are in place before opening the lid on a piano!

-What is the condition of the piano cabinet (outside)?

-What is the size of the piano? Generally bigger is better.

-Do all the keys play and repeat? Do all the notes shut off (with dampers)?

• How do the key tops look?
  • Chips can cause cuts and bad technique, in addition to looking bad.

• While the key is depressed, how much side to side wiggle room is there?
  • Too much gives the piano a loose feel and too little can cause sticking keys.

-How does the piano sound?

• Is the piano really out of tune? Pianos that have had regular tunings stay in tune longer.
  • Are there sections of the piano that don't have a general sense of pitch (that aren't even remotely close)?
    • If so this may be indicative of a broken pinblock.
  • It is best to bring a pitch reference to gauge if the piano is at the right pitch level.
  • How are the unisons? how are the octaves?

• How is the tone of the piano?
  • Do the notes sustain for enough time with the key depressed? (the longer the better!)
    • “C” 2 octaves above middle “C” sustaining for 10 seconds is very good.
  • Is the tone of the piano even throughout?
  • Is it overly bright or mellow?
  • Do you like it?

• How is the dynamic range of the piano?
  • Can all ranges of the piano convincingly play pianissimo through fortissimo?

-In what kind of condition are the strings?

• Do the bass notes have a clear tone or just “thud”?
  • Are all the strings intact (not broken)?
  • Are the strings rusted (especially where it coils around the pins)?
    • Rusted strings break more easily when raising the pitch.

-Looking at the action, do you notice any broken parts or dissimilarities?

• How deep are the hammer grooves? If the dynamic range is lacking this could be the cause.
• Do you see any major cracks in the soundboard (the large wooden panel underneath the strings)
  • Are their cracks in the bridges (the wooden strip that the strings are seated on at the end of their speaking length)?

-Do the pedals work?

-FOR UPRIGHT/SPINET PIANOS: Is it a lowered action piano? Are there rods (wooden or metal) going down to the bottom of the action?

• Are the elbows at the bottom of the rods made of plastic? (White/yellow is bad, clear is okay)
• Wood elbows are best (although a non-lowered action is even better)

-FOR GRAND PIANOS: Is the lyre attached and stable or is there excessive movement with pedals?

-Check the age of the piano with Pierce Piano Atlas

• Try to find a piano less than 40 years old, if possible. The younger the better. Don't buy a piano that was in a non-climate controlled environment like a garage.